Recent Trends in Beauty and Cosmetics & Formulation Approaches from Arkem Beauty Laboratories
As we leave the pandemic almost behind us, some of the strongest forward moving trends in cosmetics could be named as healthy beauty, concious beauty and clean beauty. In healthy beauty trend, cosmetics users consider their body, skin and hair health as a whole.
With the increase use of vitamin, mineral and probiotic supplements during the pandemics, the cosmetics consumers started to prefer microbiome friendly and vitamins enriched
products. Concious beauty trend origins from the rise of technology use era.
With the easy access to information and research via technology, the cosmetics users want to learn more regarding the ingredients of the cosmetics, and get curious about how the products work. They tend to choose the brands, which are vegan, cruelty-free, communicate openly and sustains trust. With the ever increasing conciousness towards environment, health and society, the consumers move with the same consiousness in their cosmetics product preference.
Clean beauty points out the increase of presence of natural and organic ingredients from sustainable resources. The cosmetics raw materials manufacturers have recently started sharing the amount of water used, carbondioxide gas released during production with the cosmetics finished product manufacturers.
We observe the evolution of textures along with the beauty trends and concepts. Different textures, which transform and affect the feel of the product, are sought and wanted. As of 2019, in our cosmetics application lab, we are able to touch all the raw materials that we sell in the market.
We have the opportunity to observe and test then in a finished cosmetics product form. We proudly present a short selection from our cosmetics formulations in this article.
Voluminous Bar Shampoo
This waterless shampoo bar could be identified with the concious beauty trend. It is consisted of sodium cocoyl isethionate, argan oil, IPD (Isopentyldiol), polyquaternium-22, starch and dye.
The formulation is enriched with DSM hair active, TILAMAR® Boost 150. TILAMAR® Boost
150, with INCI name Polyquaternium-110, has a unique polymer technology that gives volume to the hair fiber with blow-drying.
It is ideal to use it in the shampoo, it increases the elasticity of the hair and facilitates the styling. It is proven instrumentally and by saloon tests that it is able to keep the volume for 24 hours on different types of hair.
Bar Shampoo
Featuring Ingredients:
Isopentyldiol / TILAMAR® QUAT 2240 / TILAMAR® Boost 150
Procedure: 1. Add all the ingredients listed above except the dyes in a beaker and constantly heat up to 85° C and keep mixing until it gets a homogenous form. 2. Add dye
and the preservative once stopped heating. 3. Keep mixing while cooling, before it is cold, pour into molds.
Appearance: Pink, solid with a slight base smell.
Color I Want Semi-Permanent Hair Coloring Gel
The semi-permanent hair coloring gel provides ease for coloring the hair with various and vibrant colors.
The product suits the DIY (Do IT Yourself) concept under the healthy beauty trend. ARIANOR® FLASH series from Sensient Beauty allows an easy application for the formulation of a hair coloring gel. The powder is added to water and gel form is obtained easily.
The series include polyquaternium-37 and hydrolyzed yeast proteins. As the maufacturing process consists only of simple mixing at room temperature, it saves time and energy.
Arianor® Flash Hair Coloring Gel
Featuring Ingredients: Basic Dyes / Polyquaternium-37 / Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Procedure: Mix Arianor Flash series with water, keep mixing until it is homogenous and add the preservative.
Appearance: Colorful gel form, pH: 5 Make Up Cleansing Balm Make up cleansing balm is in frozen gel with a matte finish. The product looks like a cream however with the presence of water, turns into a milk form.
It keeps the skin moisturized even after cleansing the waterproof make up, pigments and oil based ingredients. Synthetic waxes spheres, which are derived from natural gas per
FT method, could be added to provide a peeling effect.
The oil phase of the formulation is enriched with shea butter, ethyl heyxyl plamitate, sunflower oil and medium chain esters. Natpure Feel M Eco is added as a non-volatile silicone alternative to give a silky feel to the product. Covacryl MV 60 and Covasilic 15 (sodium polyacrylate ve silica dimethyl silylate) works syngergistically to give the frozen gel form.
Make Up Cleansing Balm
Featuring Ingredients: Beautyderm Ww / Covacryl Mv60 / Covasilic 15 / Sentetik Wax
Procedure: 1. Charge water and add IPD to the phase. 2. Add all the ingredients in Phase B. Heat both phases up to 85°C. 3. Add phase B to phase A. Homogenize for 1-2 minutes. 4. Add phase C when the temerature cools to 50°C. 5. Pentavitin could be added, mix until homogenous. 6.
Add phase E to the batch and mix. It will take time to get the texture. 7. Add phase F to give the peeling feature and mix until homogengous. 8. Adjust pH to 5,5.
Appearance: Creamywhite color, gel-mousse look cream with pH: 5,5
Burçak Alioğlu
Technical Sales Manager
Arkem
