Protecting Skin from Environmental Pollution Requires a Multifaceted Approach

DSM addresses consumer expectations for skin protection against environmental pollution in personal care with a concept built on 5 leading active ingredients. By 2050, 70% of the 644 billion people on Earth will be living in cities and will likely be exposed to significantly more environmental pollution than today. Our skin, the largest organ and an important barrier between us and the outside world, is the first line of defence against pollution. But are consumers aware of this?

The Gap Between Knowledge and Action

Australia and Sweden, despite currently having the lowest air pollution levels, lead in the use of anti-pollution skin care products. Based on data from "Mintel, Anti-Pollution Beauty Report 2016", in China, where air pollution is most prevalent, only 17% of consumers think anti-pollution skin care is highly beneficial and only 28% have purchased anti-pollution skin care products. These statistics are quite surprising, given that 61% of Chinese consumers say they are concerned about particulate matter in the atmosphere, many believe pollution has significant effects on skin and leaves it lifeless and dry. In India, where pollution-related deaths rank second, anti-pollution personal care products make up only 2% of the market. This is partly due to the fact that despite a growing middle class, many local consumers can only afford budget-friendly products.

Word of Mouth, Sharing Solutions

It is clear that the beauty industry needs to reach people in regions most affected by environmental pollution—such as African countries, which are underrepresented in the global beauty market—with information and solutions. The internet is making this easier than before and offering new approaches. Apps that measure air quality already offer consumers an option to monitor pollution levels. So why shouldn't people use these attachable monitors as reminders to increase their protection? The message that skin needs protection against the harmful effects of environmental pollution has potential in reaching people who are concerned with skin condition rather than appearance. As a result, anti-pollution products with skin health claims could appeal to 36% of men and 28% of women dissatisfied with their skin condition. Young men in particular are more receptive to this type of messaging. However, if a better skin protection message is to be conveyed to people who normally do not prioritize skin care, the product must deliver convincing benefits, and at this point we need strong scientific evidence to substantiate claims.

Substantiating Anti-Pollution Claims

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), the main substances causing environmental pollution are: particulate matter, carbon monoxide, ozone, nitrogen dioxide and sulphur dioxide. DSM analyzed the effects of ozone, one of these pollutants, on skin approximately 20 years ago. Following this pioneering success, DSM has now developed a programme to test the protective effects of its skin care actives against major environmental pollutants such as particulate matter, benz(a)pyrene (BaP), and ozone. To test the protective effects of 4 DSM actives (ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS, PEPHA®-TIGHT, REGU®-FADE and PREREGEN® PF), a particulate matter suspension obtained from Standard Reference Material® 1649b (Urban Dust) from the US National Institute of Standards and Technology was used. Human epidermal keratinocytes exposed to urban dust showed reduced cell viability and dust-induced inflammation. Application with DSM active ingredients provided protection against reduced cell viability while reducing IL-8 and PGE2, markers of inflammation. BaP is a pollutant released during combustion (such as industrial production, car exhaust, cigarette smoke). DSM used 8-oxodG antibodies in a three-dimensional skin model to detect DNA damage resulting from BaP exposure. Watermelon fruit Citrullus lanatus extract (PEPHA®-PROTECT from DSM) was applied to the model surface before being exposed to BaP. When PEPHA®-PROTECT was applied at various concentrations, it significantly reduced 8-oxo-dG. This demonstrates that PEPHA®-PROTECT provides strong protection against DNA. In-vitro tests showed that soy peptides, yeast-derived superoxide dismutase and polysaccharide (PREREGEN® PF) had protective effects on human epidermal keratinocytes. After exposure to high doses of ozone, cell viability was tested and the active ingredient used at 2% (PREREGEN® PF) provided 41% protection.

Epigenetic Markers Reveal Pollution's Impact on Skin

In another study with BaP, DSM scientists investigated the protective effects of resveratrol (REGU®-FADE) in vitro using a specific microRNA, an epigenetic marker, miR-450b-5p. Mir-450b-5p has been associated with cellular aging in skin aging and linked to environmentally-induced changes. Test material proved that BaP-induced stress on keratinocytes involves epigenetic modulation (miRNA).

So, what is epigenetic modulation?

Throughout an organism's life, certain regions of its genome undergo many delicate chemical reactions that keep some regions active and others inactive—without ever changing the DNA itself. Epigenetics examines these chemical reactions, subsequent gene regulation, and the factors affecting them. Stress, diet and toxins all affect gene expression, and in-vitro studies have identified several environmental chemical categories that alter epigenetic markers, including air pollutant chemicals (particulate matter, black carbon and benzene). DSM scientists use their expertise in epigenetics to investigate the effects of pollution on skin parameters, developing high-potential products that provide targeted protection and improve skin barrier function.

Desired – A Holistic Approach to Anti-Pollution Protection

A solution to mitigate the effects of pollution should address skin condition as much as skin appearance. Consumers exposed to harsh and unnatural environments seek support and relief from beauty products that help them reconnect with nature. At the same time, tech-savvy consumers, whether products are natural or not, know how to check product claims with their ingredients and expect product claims to be substantiated with solid scientific evidence. 5 Actives – 5 Actions is the latest concept developed by DSM's Personal Care division. This concept consists of 5 actives selected from DSM's clinically tested skin care portfolio with known mechanisms of action. These actives have been re-examined for their ability to soothe, protect, perfect, and improve skin tone and quality in the context of growing pollution concerns.

5 Actives – 5 Actions:

• ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS, as its name suggests, is Edelweiss extract, specifically from the specially developed Leontopodium alpinum 'Helvetia' species, optimized for cosmetic performance. ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS strengthens the epidermal barrier and in-vivo reduces skin sensitivity. It is an organically certified bioactive. • PEPHA®-TIGHT is known from in-vivo studies to have excellent skin-tightening effects through maintenance and support of repair to the extracellular membrane. This extract from the microalga Nannochloropsis Oculata is combined with a polysaccharide, and in this form immediately and long-term tightens and firms skin. • PEPHA®-PROTECT is a high-purity extract obtained from watermelon fruit Citrullus lanatus. It is known to protect DNA in-vitro and strengthen skin's defence system in-vivo. • REGU®-FADE consists of pure resveratrol identical to nature. This high-performance and fast-acting antioxidant targets melanosomes for brighter and more even skin tone. • PREREGEN® PF is a combination of peptides derived from soybeans and superoxide dismutase that acts as a free radical neutralizer, elastase inhibitor and ozone antagonist. It visibly reduces lines and wrinkles on the face. Burçak Alioglu / Technical Sales Manager / Arkem Kimya San. ve Tic. A.S.