ZEMEA® PROPANEDIOL: A FORMULATION WITH A MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT

Today, manufacturers of personal care products are seeking to combine multi-functional components within specific formulations. This approach helps shorten lengthy INCI name lists on product labels, simplify and optimize formulations, secure supply chains, and ultimately enable manufacturers to manage and reduce their environmental footprint. Zemea® propanediol, produced by DuPont Tate&Lyle Bio Products, is one of the rare ingredients enabling achievement of these goals. Zemea® propanediol is a skin-friendly solvent and an effective active ingredient carrier. Zemea® propanediol possesses strong hydration and moisturizing properties. Zemea® propanediol is a sensory enhancer that prevents tackiness and imparts an aesthetically pleasing appearance to an emulsion. Zemea® propanediol is also an auxiliary agent that can significantly reduce the preservative content in a formulation by enhancing the effectiveness of the preservative system. Finally, Zemea® propanediol is a natural and 100% bio-based ingredient.

Bio-Based Performance

For formula developers seeking skin-friendly alternatives to petroleum-based glycols, a high-performance option is now available: Zemea® propanediol. Unlike most glycols, Zemea® propanediol is manufactured from renewable plant-based ingredients. In fact, it is 100% bio-based certified under the USDA BioPreferred® program and is the world's first 100% bio-based glycol alternative compliant with the new Natural ISO 16128 standard and certified by the Natural Products Association. Zemea® propanediol is the result of a joint venture between DuPont, a world leader in science and engineering, and Tate&Lyle, a food, beverage and industrial ingredient manufacturer. This joint venture has received numerous industry awards and recognition for its successful innovation in industrial biotechnology. Production began in November 2006 at the company's headquarters in Loudon, Tennessee (USA). The current annual production capacity of 61,000 metric tons was increased to 77,000 metric tons following our latest expansion project completed on 1 July 2019. Zemea® propanediol is produced from glucose using a patented fermentation-based process. This glucose comes from rapidly renewable raw materials. Final purity is typically 99.99% or higher. Beyond having a positive environmental profile, Zemea® propanediol is a robust option. It can successfully replace—and often surpass—petroleum-based glycols or glycerin in natural and conventional formulations. Enthusiastically received in the industry, Zemea® propanediol has begun to be used in skin care products, hair care products, deodorants, face masks and other cosmetic and personal care products. Zemea® propanediol is currently used in more than 3,000 products worldwide. Formula developers evaluate the proven numerous advantages offered by Zemea® propanediol. These can be listed as follows: • Less irritating to skin. In numerous studies conducted using the Modified Draize Repeated Insult Patch Test method, Zemea® propanediol did not cause skin damage, irritation or sensitivity even at high concentrations. 1 Researchers observed no clinically significant dermal irritation or allergic contact following exposure to Zemea® propanediol up to 75% at three different pH levels. In contrast, skin irritation was observed with propylene glycol at 25% concentration; this corresponds to nearly one-quarter of the test population showing positive irritation at 75% concentration. Based on the results obtained from these studies, the likelihood of Zemea® propanediol causing irritation or sensitivity to human skin is low. • Enhanced moisture retention, moisturizing and sensory properties. In two independent tests conducted with Zemea® propanediol and petroleum-based glycols, measurements made with Corneometer 825 PC® (Courage + Khazaka) showed that Zemea® propanediol at a 5% use level was more effective at moisturizing skin compared to propylene glycol or butylene glycol.² In repeated sensory studies conducted with consumers, lotions formulated with Zemea® propanediol scored higher on all sensory attributes compared to lotions formulated with glycerin. Zemea® propanediol was also found to effectively reduce the sticky feel resulting from high glycerin concentrations in certain formulations.³ • Possesses properties that enhance preservative effectiveness. In a study, in a general oil-in-water emulsion formulation containing 6% Zemea® propanediol and preservative at one-quarter the recommended use level, the preservative was observed to enhance its effectiveness against gram-positive and gram-negative microorganisms. ⁴ Zemea® propanediol has also consistently increased the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol-based preservatives against Aspergillus niger. Zemea® propanediol also has the potential to enhance the effect of zinc pyrithione (ZPT) in anti-dandruff formulations.5 In tests conducted, when 4% Zemea® propanediol and 1.2% ZPT were used together in a general formulation, Malassezia globosa mortality rates increased by 90%.

Sustainable Solution

Environmental sustainability continues to gain importance not only as a corporate value but also as a sales feature and consumer loyalty factor. Given concerns about climate change, energy consumption and greenhouse gas (CO2) emissions have become important criteria in determining a product's environmental footprint.

Cradle-to-Gate Life Cycle Assessment Reviewed in Studies on Zemea® Propanediol by Five Winds International⁶

Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions Zemea® propanediol generates 47% less greenhouse gas than petroleum-based 1,3-propanediol and 42% less than propylene glycol. Non-Renewable Energy Use Zemea® propanediol consumes 49% less non-renewable energy over its lifetime compared to petroleum-based 1,3-propanediol and 41% less than propylene glycol. Zemea® propanediol is a natural, skin-friendly and preservative-function-enhancing alternative to petroleum-based glycols for formula developers seeking versatile and innovative cosmetic ingredients. Among its advantages are high-degree purity, skin compatibility, strong humectant effect, excellent sensory properties and a positive environmental profile. For more information about Zemea® propanediol, to review the above-mentioned studies or to order a free sample of Zemea® propanediol, visit the website. Pınar Yeşim Doğan Technical Sales Engineer IMCD Turkey         Chip Stockman Marketing Specialist DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products      

Sources 1. DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, Miller, Robert, et al., Evaluation of 1,3-Propanediol as a 100% Natural Glycol Replacement. 2. Ibid. 3. Ibid. 4. DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, Technical Bulletin: Zemea® Propanediol: Potential to Enhance Preservative Function. 5. DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, Technical Bulletin: Zemea® Propanediol: Potential to Enhance Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) Effectiveness. 6. Zemea® LCA (Life Cycle) data based on Loudon process design data; study review conducted by Five Winds International.

Copyright © 2019 DuPont Tate&Lyle Bio Products Company, LLC. Zemea® is a registered trademark of DuPont Tate&Lyle Bio Products Company, LLC for the bio-based propanediol brand. All rights reserved. Corneometer 825 PC® is a registered trademark of Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH. USDA BioPreferred® Program is a registered trademark of the US Department of Agriculture.