Starch Use in Cosmetics as a Multifunctional Additive

Corn, rice and tapioca starches are used as a simple and natural method to improve sensory feel in skin care and colour cosmetics. Today, the trend towards natural cosmetics is increasing steadily, with the result that more and more consumers are seeking natural alternative products to those currently available on the market. Formulating an effective and natural product with good sensory characteristics remains a challenge that even the most advanced raw material technologies of today struggle to meet. For example, while consumers demand that the products they use contain high amounts of natural oils, they do not want to feel a heavy, occlusive layer on their skin after application.

Perception, Sensory Feel and Silky Finish

Today, product texture plays an important determinant role in consumer purchasing decisions, alongside fragrance and actives. Product texture encompasses the spreadability of the product on skin and the skin's response after product application. These criteria are also gaining importance in self-tanning products, a rapidly growing sector. Until recently, SPF was the only criterion that needed to be met for sunscreen formulations from a consumer perspective, but today's consumers demand sun care products that are not heavy, do not create a sticky layer, do not leave white cast, and provide easy and pleasant application. Furthermore, self-tanning products are now expected to be more resistant to sand sticking to the skin after application. The Agrana product portfolio includes specialized starches designed to meet the specific needs of cosmetic products. In addition to easy incorporation into formulations, starches can address the need to naturally improve the sensory characteristics of formulations. The Agrana product portfolio includes both naturally modified starches and organic versions.

Skin Care

Adding natural starches to emulsions is possible using two different methods. As the first method, starch is added to the water phase at the beginning and heated, which can lead to system clogging. As the second method, starch can be added after emulsification to enhance the sensory properties of the product.

Modified Starches (Corn PO4 PHB, Rice PO4 Natural)

Modified starches are heat-resistant due to the modification in their structure. While they do not cause gelling effects during heating, they improve the final sensory properties of the product. Adding modified starches to emulsions and anhydrous formulations eliminates the oily feel of the product and reduces its consistency. Furthermore, modified starches are a strong alternative to silicones, elastomers and many other raw materials with sensory-enhancing properties. Agrana starch products can be used in formulations for numerous skin care products such as face, hand and foot creams, body lotions and butters. They are an ideal solution for products for children and infants, sun care products where UV filters create a sticky feel, and men's care products that require a light and oil-free sensory feel. Improving sensory properties is not the only benefit that starches provide to products; with their benefits such as enhancing emulsion stability, moisturizing, absorbing excess sebum and smoothing the skin, starches are an ideal additive for product formulations designed for dry and acne-prone skin.

Colour Cosmetics

Starch products find a wide field of application in colour cosmetics. In addition to being an alternative to talc, they provide benefits such as oil absorption and adhesion to skin, thereby smoothing the skin. Starch products provide silky smoothness on the skin while also increasing makeup durability. By adding starch to formulations, innovative textured products can be obtained that provide a smooth, dry and matte finish on the skin in a cream-to-powder style. Starches are widely used in compact and loose powders, lipsticks, lip gloss, pencils and liquid-type formulations.

Dry Shampoo

Agrana products offer the best solution for dry shampoo formulations. The product with the trade name D.S.A. 7 is rice starch combined with Cetrimonium Chloride; it absorbs excess oil in the hair, providing a feeling of freshness, and is effective in adding volume to hair. The product is available in black, brown and red versions in addition to the standard white colour.

Cleansing Products

Starches are also effective detergents. They are a natural alternative to synthetic opacifiers used to give products a milky white appearance. Additionally, starches improve foam characteristics, helping to achieve creamy foam and thus moisturizing the skin. In conclusion, starch products are a multifunctional additive for a wide range of cosmetic product groups. •Creams, lotions, body balms, •Anhydrous formulations, •Antiperspirants, •Colour cosmetics, •Cleansing products, •Dry shampoos, •Powder products.

Main Benefits of Starches in Cosmetic Products

•Improvement of sensory properties, - Reduction of oiliness, - Smooth, powdery and silky feel, - Ease of spreadability. •Matte effect, •Moisturizing feel, •Enhancement of emulsion stability, •Talc alternative. Author: Małgorzata Chochoł Senior Sales Manager Personal Care Home Care & Industrial Cleaning Azelis Poland   Translator: Özge Yüksel Özel Technical Business Development Manager Personal Care Azelis Turkey