Recent Trends in Cosmetics and Beauty & Arkem Beauty

Cosmetics and Beauty: Near-term Trends & Formulation Approaches from Arkem Beauty Laboratory In this period we can describe as emerging from the pandemic, cosmetic trends advancing with strong steps include healthy beauty (well-being), conscious beauty and clean beauty. In the healthy beauty trend, cosmetic product users consider their health and view both body and skin and hair health as a whole. Just as they use vitamin, mineral and probiotic supplement products whose use peaked with the pandemic, they also prefer to use vitamins compatible with skin and microbiome-friendly cosmetic products. The conscious beauty trend emerges as increasing technology use, ease of access to research and information lead cosmetic product users to want to learn and know what the contents of these products are and how they work. Cosmetic product users prefer vegan, cruelty-free brands that provide transparent communication with consumers and inspire trust. Rising levels of environmental, health and social awareness encourage users to make choices in cosmetic products in line with this consciousness. The clean beauty trend signals both sustainable sources and increasing organic and natural raw materials in cosmetic products. In the near term, cosmetic raw material producers have begun to share parameters such as water consumption and carbon dioxide emissions during material processing with cosmetic manufacturers. An element accompanying beauty trends and concepts is what we call the texture of the cosmetic product; we observe new forms felt and transformed when we touch them and apply them to our skin. Since 2019, in our cosmetic application laboratory we have been developing projects to touch the raw materials we supply to the Turkish market and observe them in finished cosmetic products, and we have had the opportunity to work on different cosmetic product formulations. We present the selection of formulations that form the subject of this article for your review.

Volume-Giving Solid Shampoo

Water-free solid shampoo, which we can identify with the conscious beauty trend, contains sodium cocoyl isethionate, argan oil, IPD (isopentyldiol), polyquaternium-22, starch and colorant. The formula is enriched with DSM hair active that gives volume to hair, TILAMAR® Boost 150. TILAMAR® Boost 150, with its unique polymer technology known by the INCI name polyquaternium-110, enables hair strands to gain volume together with heat. It is ideal for use in shampoo; it increases hair strand elasticity and facilitates styling. Its volume-giving effect on different hair types for 24 hours has been proven by instrumental and hairdresser tests.

Solid Shampoo

Featured Raw Materials in Formulation: Isopentyldiol / TILAMAR® QUAT 2240 / TILAMAR® Boost 150 [caption id="attachment_140399" align="aligncenter"] Bar Shampoo-200422[/caption] Procedure: 1. All materials in the list except colorant are placed in a beaker and heated to 85°C with continuous stirring to achieve a completely homogeneous structure. 2. The homogeneous mixture is removed from heat, colorant and preservative are added and stirred. 3. The mixture is poured into a suitable mold and shaped before it begins to cool. Appearance: Light pink colored solid with faint base fragrance.

Color Your Way Semi-Permanent Gel Hair Dye

Under the healthy beauty trend, this hair gel product, suitable for the do-it-yourself (DIY) concept highlighted by the pandemic, enables easy dyeing of hair in different and vibrant colors. Thanks to the Arianor® Flash series, semi-permanent hair dyes allow the product to easily obtain gel form by direct addition to water. These semi-permanent dye series also contain polyquaternium-37 and hydrolyzed yeast protein. While easily obtaining gel form when mixed with water, the product formulation is a completely cold process and simple mixing operation that saves time and energy.

Arianor® Flash Gel Hair Dye

Featured Raw Materials in Formulation: Basic Dyes / Polyquaternium-37 / Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein [caption id="attachment_140400" align="aligncenter"] Arianor Flash Hair Coloring Gel-130422[/caption] Procedure: A dye from the Arianor Flash series and preservative are added to water and mixed until gel form is reached. Appearance: Colored gel form. pH: 5

Makeup Cleansing Balm

This makeup cleansing product is in matte gel form with a dull appearance. One characteristic of the product is that although it appears as a semi-solid spreadable cream, it turns into milk when combined with water. Because waterproof makeup contains oil-based materials and pigments, it easily removes them from skin and then provides a moisture sensation. Depending on preference, perfect microspheres produced from natural gas by FT method can be added to it, and this gives the product a peeling effect. The product contains shea butter, ethyl hexyl palmitate, sunflower oil and medium-chain esters as found in a cream. To enrich the oil phase and sensation, the raw material Natpure Feel M Eco, which also stands out as a silicone alternative in skin products, was added. The matte gel form of the product is obtained through the synergistic work of two commercially named raw materials (sodium polyacrylate and silica dimethyl silylate) called Covacryl MV 60 and Covasilic 15.

Makeup Cleansing Balm

Featured Raw Materials in Formulation: Beautyderm WW / Covacryl MV60 / Covasilic 15 / Synthetic Wax [caption id="attachment_140402" align="aligncenter"] Cleansing Balm-150921[/caption] Procedure: 1. IPD is added to the water in phase A and heated to approximately 85°C. 2. Phase B is added to a beaker. Heated to 85°C to ensure complete melting of solid materials. 3. Phase B is added to phase A. Homogenized with a homogenizer for approximately 1-2 minutes. 4. When the temperature of the mixture drops to around 50°C, the raw materials in phase C are added and mixed thoroughly. 5. Pentavitin in phase D is added to the mixture and stirred until completely mixed. 6. The raw material in phase E is added to this mixture and stirred. Wait a bit for the product to achieve mousse form. 7. The peeling agent in phase F is added and stirred until it reaches a homogeneous structure. 8. pH is adjusted to around 5.5. Appearance: White colored, frozen gel-foam-like cream structure and pH: 5.5. *Product images are for representation purposes. Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem