Microbiome-Activated Express Skin Perfector

Masknyl™ Express Skin Perfector Activated by Microbiome

Mask Wearing Increases Skin Problems: Redness, Discomfort, Hyperpigmentation… During the Covid 19 pandemic, mandatory mask use led the entire world to discover "maskne." This term is formed by combining the words mask and acne. Skin problems related to mask wearing: local irritation, increased sensitivity, acne, itching and other skin conditions created by mask use in special environments also cause friction, pressure, moisture and congestion. Even before Covid 19, redness, sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation and discomfort were among the biggest problems for consumers worldwide, and as the entire world began wearing masks, the sudden increase in these symptoms created new demand. We produce fast and reliable solutions that address all these problems at once.

Masknyl™ - Get Rid of Mask-Related Skin Problems in Just 24 Hours

By being activated by skin microbiome, Masknyl™ provides a triple effect by performing the following at the biological level: 1/ Strengthening skin's antioxidant defense, 2/ Reducing the inflammation process, 3/ Activating skin repair mechanism. For this reason, Masknyl™ is a perfect multipotent ingredient to counter all mask-wearing consequences. At the same time, for consumers experiencing redness and sensitive skin throughout the year, it is an all-in-one active key to soothe, repair and ease skin discomfort.

Rational Eco-Design of a New Microbiome-Activated Phyto-Active

1. Masknyl™: Increasing phytomeline bioavailability through biotechnology Masknyl™ is a pure and defined combination of polyglucosylated phytomeline forms prepared through biocatalysis. The ecologically designed production process complies with Green Chemistry principles. The distribution of glucose portions contributes not only to increased solubility (up to 14,000 times compared to free phytomeline), but also to controlled time-release, with phytomeline via the deglycosilating activity of skin microflora.

2. Prediction of Biological Functions (in silico)

Phytomeline and mono di-glucoside forms were processed through the Rediscovery Platform® (a bioinformatics software based on global harmonics) and enabled deciphering of polypharmacology profiles and prediction of main biological functions. Results: Polyglucosylated phytomeline compounds (found in Masknyl™) exhibit different activities depending on glucosylation levels. Monoglucosyl phytomeline (G1) is predicted to present interesting antioxidant properties, while diglucosyl phytomeline (G2) shows greater effects on soothing benefits. Pure phytomeline alone exhibits the most significant biological activity combining soothing, wound-healing, antioxidant and detoxifying activities.

3. Microbiome Activation (in vitro)

A sample of skin microflora was taken from a series of volunteers using a sterile gauze pad saturated with NaCl. It was applied in 5 different areas: forehead, cheek, nose, neck, forearm. Microbiota was cultured at 30°C with Masknyl™ and in liquid medium (buffered HT). Supernatants were collected over time and analyzed by HPLC-UV-MS. Phytomeline and its glucosylated forms were detected. Results: A decrease in the concentration of polyglucosylated G3 and G7 forms is observable 24 hours after culture initiation, followed by release of phytomeline and G1 and G2 forms. After 72 hours, the G2 form also begins to decrease, while phytomeline and monoglucosides continue to increase depending on the transformation of polyglucosylated forms.

1. Oxidation Control (in vitro)

Normal Human Keratinocytes (NHEKs) are treated with Masknyl™ at 0.1% and 0.3%, then exposed to oxidative stress (tert-butyl hydroperoxide, TBP, at 5 mM). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production is then evaluated in both treated and untreated conditions via a fluorescence measurement (DCFH-DA probes) 1 hour later. Results: Masknyl™ shows significant antioxidant activity of up to -30%. Mann Whitney test: * p<0.05

2. Reduction of Inflammation (ex vivo)

Skin explants were pre-treated or not pre-treated with Masknyl™ at 1% for 24 hours. Inflammatory stress was then applied (topical application of PMA at 75 mg/ml, phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate) and treated again with Masknyl™ at 1% for 2 days. Intermediate inflammation lipids were then measured by LC-MS/MS analysis. Results: Masknyl™ significantly reduces Thromboxane 2 levels, an inflammatory lipid of the arachidonic pathway, by up to -48%. Mann Whitney test: # p<0.05

3. Skin Repair and Wound Healing (in vitro)

Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) were treated with Masknyl™ at 0.5% or with epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF, 1 ng/ml) as a positive reference. A scratch was then made in the cell layer and a new treatment was applied. Images were then taken immediately after the scratch and 24 hours later to measure the surface of wound closure. Results: Masknyl™ significantly increases skin repair activity by accelerating cell migration by up to 113%. Student's t-test: * p<0.001 Resolve the Harmful Effects of Mask Wearing in 24 Hours! (clinical study) Due to the biological benefits of Masknyl™ (antioxidant, soothing and wound-healing support), a double-blind clinical test versus placebo was conducted to evaluate its benefits on the negative effects of mask wearing. This study was conducted over the test period (4 days) on 19 women (average age 39.5) selected due to their sensitive skin around the mouth area and asked to wear surgical masks for at least 2 hours before measurements daily. Volunteers applied two creams twice daily (morning and evening) to half their face - one containing Masknyl™ at 1% and the other an identical formula that was inactive. Volunteers' skin reactivity was analyzed by measuring red spots on D0 and D1, while hyperpigmentation was examined by measuring brown spots on D0 and D4. Volunteers also provided their own perception through a self-assessment questionnaire on D1.

1. Control Red Spots and Inflammation

Red spots and vascularization were tracked through VISIA® CR measurements on D0 and D1. Photographs were taken of each half-face and then a software application was performed with Vaestro®. Results: As confirmed by visual observation of volunteer photographs (see side for vascularization visualization through cross-polarization and below for image analysis), Masknyl™ at 1% causes a significant reduction in the number of red spots in the masked area in just 24 hours. Wilcoxon test vs D0, Mann Whitney test vs placebo: # p<0.1, p<0.05

2. Self-Assessment After 24 Hours of Use

Panelists were asked to evaluate the effectiveness of both products on their face after just 24 hours of use. A significant difference was highlighted by volunteers in terms of skin comfort. They appeared softer and less tight in the same proportions (74% of panelists).   Chi square test: * p<0.05

3. Control of Mask-Induced Hyperpigmentation in Just 4 Days

Brown spots were tracked through VISIA® CR measurements on D0 and D4. Photographs were taken of each half-face and then a software application was performed with Vaestro®. Results: As confirmed by visual observation of volunteer photographs (see side for vascularization visualization through cross-polarization and below for image analysis), Masknyl™ at 1% causes a significant reduction in the number of red spots in the masked area in just 24 hours. Wilcoxon test vs D0, Mann Whitney test vs placebo: # p<0.1, * p<0.05  

Pauline Martin Operational Marketing and Communications Manager Givaudan

 

Compiled and Translated by Tuğçe Güner Duman Assistant Technical Manager – Chemical Engineer Cosmer Kimya