Probiotic Products and Skin Care

Probiotic Products and Skin Care: Repair Complex and Prorenew Complex Actives from CLR "Healthy Skin Has a Healthy Skin Microbiome" Cosmetic products and their effects on skin microbiome are emerging as an increasingly important topic. Harald van der Hoeven from CLR Laboratories sheds light on the role of skin microbiome in skin health and how you can add new claims to your skin care formulations by using CLR's proven probiotic ingredients. Today, skin microbiome appears to be one of the hot topics in the cosmetics industry and is likely to remain a focal point for some time to come. While the concept of "beneficial bacteria living on our skin" attracts consumer interest, skin microbiome at the scientific level remains an extremely challenging subject. While most cosmetic products claim to have a microbiome-friendly or balancing effect, the claim of "improving skin microbiome" is rarely seen in the industry. This claim resonates with consumers and attracts considerable attention in the cosmetics sector. Because it is quite difficult to find claims supporting the idea that improving skin microbiome content is associated with cosmetic products. For this reason, it is important to thoroughly understand skin microbiome and its role in order to fulfill this claim. Essentially, the beneficial microbes on our skin protect us against colonization by harmful bacteria. While this protective function is something almost everyone knows about, the role of beneficial microbes goes far beyond this. Certain beneficial species in skin microbiome interact with differentiated keratinocytes in the epidermis, thereby strengthening the skin's immune capabilities, barrier function, and ability to manage and control the microbiome. S. epidermidis is generally known as one of the beneficial bacteria and is referred to as probiotic because they can interact with keratinocytes and have positive effects. Additionally, skin microbiome is important because it provides protection against UV-induced immune suppression. As is known, UV light not only damages skin cells but also reduces the skin cells' ability to repair damage, which is essentially an immunological process. Understanding these important properties of skin microbiome has therefore become a topic of considerable interest in the cosmetics industry. The interaction between healthy skin microbiome and keratinocytes shows a striking similarity to the interaction between lactic acid-producing probiotic bacteria in our intestines and the epithelial cells they reside on. Probiotic Skin Care Probiotic bacteria continue their existence in our intestines with us in a symbiotic life form, meaning we need them and they need us. The function of skin microbiome on skin is very similar to the function of probiotic bacteria on the epithelial wall in our intestines. However, probiotic bacteria are different from the microbes on our skin. For example, they cannot survive long on our skin because the skin surface is cold and dry, an environment where probiotic bacteria cannot survive. Interestingly, lysates of probiotic bacteria (liquids containing the contents of cells whose cell walls or cell membranes have been broken down) have been successfully used in many cosmetic products for many years and have proven themselves in the market with safe and effective use. These products are conceptually aligned with the skin microbiome trend and have microbiome efficacy activity. Probiotic lysates have the property of positively affecting both the physical and immunological barrier function of the skin. Bifidobacterium Longum Lysate (INCI: Bifida Ferment Lysate, Trade Name: Repair Complex CLR PF) has been used in cosmetics for over 30 years and, as described above, its effect against UV-induced immune suppression has been proven in a manner similar to the effects of skin microbiome. As a result of its interaction with keratinocytes, it has been shown that the production of immune-suppressive Interleukin-10 (IL-10) on skin decreases, thus IL-12 increases. The IL-12 protein plays an important role in triggering immune enhancement and DNA repair processes. This effect of Repair Complex CLR PF has been proven both in vitro and in vivo. [caption id="attachment_128453" align="aligncenter"] Figure 1: Decrease in IL-10 expression after UV irradiation (UV irradiation with 3 J/cm2 UVA + 0.3 J/cm2 UVB) Figure 2: Increase in IL-12 expression after UV irradiation (UV irradiation with 1 J/cm2 UVA + 0.1 J/cm2 UVB)[/caption]

Enhancing Skin Renewal

This similarity between the effects of probiotic bacterial lysate and skin microbiome is just one example. Another example is Lactococcus Lactis Lysate (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate; Trade Name: ProRenew Complex CLR). In vitro experiments demonstrate that ProRenew Complex CLR both accelerates and improves the skin's renewal processes. These effects were also confirmed in in vivo studies demonstrating that 3% ProRenew Complex CLR improves the shedding process. In another study, treatment with 3% ProRenew Complex CLR after removing the stratum corneum layer using the tape stripping method resulted in faster recovery of skin barrier properties and rapid renewal of the stratum corneum. ProRenew Complex CLR also increases the production of AMPs (antimicrobial proteins) such as cathelicidin and B-defensin-1. [caption id="attachment_128455" align="aligncenter"] Figure 4: Induction of cathelicidin and ß-defensin-1[/caption] Like Repair Complex CLR PF, the effects of ProRenew Complex CLR on skin also show general similarity to the effects of a healthy skin microbiome. Among these effects is helping maintain a healthy skin microbiome. Healthy skin has a healthy skin microbiome. Skin is the most important factor in improving or balancing skin microbiome. If skin loses its ability to successfully support skin microbiome, the microbiome will be damaged. Atopic dermatitis, where S. aureus proliferates excessively compared to other bacteria due to insufficient AMP production, is a good example of this. Supporting and improving skin microbiome means supporting and improving the skin's epidermal renewal processes and its ability to counteract UV-induced immune suppression. These effects can be achieved with CLR active products ProRenew Complex CLR (INCI: Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) and Repair Complex CLR PF (INCI: Bifida Ferment Lysate). The mechanism of action of these products is similar to the effect of commensal beneficial skin bacteria. For this reason, it makes sense to call these beneficial skin bacteria probiotic. It has been proven through in vivo and in vitro tests that probiotic bacterial lysates play an important role in protecting and improving skin homeostasis and microbiome. Translator / Compiler: Özge Yüksel Özel Technical Manager / Cosmetics and Detergents IMCD Turkey