Encapsulation with "Green Chemistry": The Path to Effective and Sustainable Cosmetics

Consumers may have many reasons for choosing a product, but there is one question that occupies all their minds: "Will this product deliver on its promises?" Efficacy is at the top of the list of factors that cosmetics consumers value most, and this situation means that the marketing departments of companies operating in the cosmetics industry face challenges in product positioning, while R&D departments face difficulties in the formulation process. With the aim of providing an innovative and natural solution to the global efficacy problem, IN Beauty, the cosmetics brand of Brazil-based Nanovetores Group, is collaborating with IMCD to bring this solution to the Turkish market.

How does encapsulation technology increase efficacy in cosmetics?

1. Protection: Natural capsules (Figure 1) prevent the active ingredient from interacting with other components in the formula and with physical-chemical factors. An example of this is ascorbic acid, the original vitamin C molecule. When ascorbic acid comes into contact with air, it oxidizes to form dehydroascorbic acid. This situation can result not only in obtaining a brownish cosmetic product, but also in reducing the efficacy of the active ingredient and the formation of a by-product that may irritate the skin. Thanks to Nanovetores encapsulation technology, by preventing these interactions, it prevents the degradation of the active ingredient and ensures that its effects are fully utilized.

Figure 1: Biopolymeric Capsule

2. Deep Penetration: With their reduced sizes (above 200 nm), capsules penetrate the epidermis and reach the lower layers of the skin. As in our previous example; a 22% increase in skin penetration rate was observed for ascorbic acid, namely vitamin C, after being encapsulated by Nanovetores. 3. Control of Active Ingredient Release: Nanovetores capsules break with specific release triggers; in this way, the release of encapsulated active ingredients occurs in a completely controlled manner. For example, encapsulated skincare active ingredients are activated by enzymes in human skin. When the capsules penetrate the skin, enzymes break down the capsules and release their active ingredient content. These capsules have a matrix structure. For this reason, they are broken down over time and continuously. That is, unlike when the active component is in free form, it does not penetrate the skin all at once, and thus the risk of irritation is further reduced. Continuous and controlled release provides great advantages when working with aggressive active ingredients such as retinol, one of the most effective vitamin A derivatives. Encapsulation, in addition to protection against oxidation, deep penetration and continuous release, prevents the active ingredient from penetrating the skin all at once, thereby preventing irritation risk. In summary; encapsulation technology ensures that the active component is protected, penetrates deeply, and is released in a controlled and continuous manner. In this way, it helps increase efficacy in cosmetic applications. One of the consumers' priorities is naturalness. Sustainable and natural products constitute the future of cosmetics as a consolidated market. In light of this knowledge, Nanovetores adapted the "Green Chemistry" concept to its technology. The capsules are made entirely from natural materials - lipids and biopolymers - and are free of organic solvents and 100% water-based. In addition to the care Nanovetores shows for the reliability and sustainability of its products, it also develops versatile ingredients that provide synergistic benefits. Nano Up Lift, which increases skin firmness, is just one of these ingredients. Nano Up Lift consists of biopolymeric capsules of hyaluronic acid particles coated with Senegal Acacia Extract. As seen in efficacy test results (Figures 2 and 3), with the powerful anti-aging components it contains, it creates striking results around the eye area in as short a period as 7 days. Figure 2: Wrinkles around the eyes at the beginning of the clinical study Figure 3: Reduction in eye area wrinkles after 7 days Nanovetores technology has created an effective cycle in the cosmetics sector by continuing to create actives that can be easily adapted to cosmetic formulations and fully deliver the results promised to the end consumer. All of this is the result of a sustainable and innovative technology.     Author: Dr. Betina Giehl Zanetti Ramos Managing Director and Authorized Technical Manager Nanovetores           Compiled by: Merve Yörükoğlu Technical Sales Engineer IMCD Turkey