Benefits of Osmolytes in Personal Care Products: DuPont's GENENCARE OSMS Product Line

DuPont's GENENCARE® OSMS BA product is a high-purity anhydrous betaine derived from sugar beets. This amino acid derivative, which is 100% bio-sourced, occurs naturally in plants and animal metabolism. Betaine is a natural osmoprotectant—due to its osmolyte properties, it maintains water balance in living cells and protects them from environmental stresses such as oxidative stress (UV radiation) and thermal stress (dehydration). GENENCARE® OSMS BA strengthens the epidermal barrier and delivers moisturizing, protective and sensory benefits in numerous applications including skin care, hair care and color cosmetics.

Effects on Skin Care Protection Osmoprotection/Protein Protection Against Denaturation

Osmolytes protect proteins from denaturation by drawing water from their surface, increase their thermodynamic stability and help them maintain their unique three-dimensional functional structure (Figure 1).

Improvement of Tight Junctions in Keratinocytes/Strengthening the Skin Barrier

(in vitro*) Tight junction regions are cellular junction pathways that bind keratinocytes in the granular layer of the epidermis and play an important role in epidermal connective tissue structure and skin barrier function. GENENCARE® OSMS BA significantly increases the strength of tight junctions in a dose-dependent manner compared to the control formulation 24 hours after application.

Moisturization Osmoprotection/Maintaining Water Balance in Living Cells

(in vitro*) GENENCARE® OSMS BA helps protect keratinocytes against dehydration when exposed to oxidative (UV radiation) and thermal stress. When exposed to external stress, living cells synthesize specific osmolyte transporters (BGT-1) to increase betaine uptake (GENENCARE® OSMS BA) and allow cells to restore water loss.

Short-Term Moisturization (24-Hour Clinical Study on 21 Volunteers)

Formulations containing 4% GENENCARE® OSMS BA were observed to significantly reduce visual dryness scores at 2, 4, 8 and 24-hour intervals and increase skin moisture (SkiCon) for 6 hours following a single application.

Long-Term Moisturization (4-Week Clinical Study on 40 Volunteers)

Formulations containing 3% GENENCARE® OSMS BA were observed to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) 3 days after the start of use, throughout 29 days of use and for 2 days after discontinuation (Figure 2).

Sensory Properties (Clinical Sensory Analysis Conducted by Expert Panel*)

Formulations containing 4% GENENCARE® OSMS BA and a mixture of 2% GENENCARE® OSMS BA + 2% glycerin were compared to hand cleanser formulations containing 4% glycerin. The betaine-containing formulations were observed to improve the sensory profile (less sticky, better spreadability and silky finish) while delivering equivalent moisturizing benefits.

Effects on Hair Care Protection

Strengthens hair and provides protection against heat and breakage (Figure 3). Reduces irritation from surfactants and thereby provides protective effect on the scalp (Figure 4). Hair bundles washed with shampoos containing 4% GENENCARE® OSMS BA were observed to show a 39-50% reduction in breakage when compared with hair bundles washed with the control product (Figure 5), and hair bundles washed with shampoos containing 2% GENENCARE® OSMS BA showed a 36% reduction in split ends (Figure 6).

Moisturization

Increases the water-holding capacity of hair strands.

Sensory Effect

Provides a conditioning effect to hair, increasing shine and softness. Produces a more luxurious, stable and rich lather. Tests conducted on untreated and damaged hair washed with shampoos containing 2% and 4% GENENCARE® OSMS BA demonstrated ease of wet and dry combing (Figure 7).

Static Control

When used at 2%, GENENCARE® OSMS BA helps reduce the static effect produced by high-humidity environments (85% RH, 22°C) by half (Figure 8).

Effects on Color Cosmetics Lip Moisturization

Clinical studies demonstrated that a lipstick formulation containing 2% GENENCARE® OSMS CC increased lip moisture by 17% immediately and by 18% after 2 hours compared to the control product (Figure 9).

Cosmetic Applications

Categories: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics. Recommended use level: 1-5%

Formulation Recommendation:

GENENCARE® OSMS BA dissolves easily in water and is therefore easy to formulate. When dissolved in water, it yields clear solutions and is compatible with many ingredients, providing numerous application and formulation possibilities. GENENCARE® OSMS BA can also be used as a formulation aid to facilitate the dispersion and swelling of polymeric thickeners (carbomers). In hot-process products, it should preferably be added at the end of the formulation at temperatures below 40°C.     Özge Yüksel Özel Technical Business Development Manager Azelis