Arabic music in the background, a warm Mediterranean evening, being in Beirut…
One other distinct aspect of the city is that you never encounter public transport vehicles anywhere around. Taxis are the only means of transportation.
Countries that carry different colours, cultures, religions and races together in various mosaics always have interesting stories, and those cities truly live in our memories with a tale-like realism. I'm going to Beirut for vacation!
When you say you're going to Beirut for vacation, everyone has something to say. Why not a European country instead of Beirut! The idea of taking a holiday in a Middle Eastern country doesn't appeal to anyone. It's even intimidating. Being a tourist in a city that bears the marks of war, one that was bombed until just 6 years ago, carries a risk. Setting aside all these comments and looking at the Middle East's Paris, so close to Turkey, with many treasures in one place, I don't think I've ever met anyone whose path led to Beirut and regretted it. I too am among those who set aside such talk and went without regrets. You can travel from Istanbul to Beirut in approximately 1 hour and 25 minutes. Beirut Airport is only 15 minutes away from the city centre. If your passport is valid for at least 6 months and you have no record of entry to or exit from Israel, you can visit without obtaining a visa.
Beirut is one of the Middle East's most important port cities and the capital of Lebanon. With its climate, natural beauty and history, it is a tourism destination. Until years of civil war, Lebanon had a developed economy and modern life, making it one of the Middle East's favourite tourism centres. The country went through difficult years due to civil war and Israeli attacks, bearing the heavy marks of war throughout every part of the country. Describing the city is almost difficult. Many countries have witnessed wars; but nowhere else is there such a landscape. On one hand, you witness buildings abandoned due to war, bombed, bearing bullet marks, cold and dirty; on the other hand, you encounter truly elegant streets, alleys and shops housing the world's most famous brands all together. You cannot carry the sadness you feel in one street to the next.
The city's visuals don't allow for it. There is probably no other place in the world where contrast is felt to such a marked degree. Walking those streets, you cannot help but think! While bearing the marks of so much war, how can one enjoy oneself, or how much sorrow is felt in an atmosphere of mourning? Every time you pass a ruined building, aren't thousands of the lost remembered? On one side, veiled women; on the other, Arab beauties with flowing hair move freely through the streets. Call to prayer mixes with the sound of church bells. While some rush to Friday prayers, others pray in churches. The people's concern is not about who belongs to which sect, religion or race, but only that all of Beirut can live freely in peace! This is Beirut's mystery, its fairy-tale quality, its real and living character—you feel it in those streets you walk and say you're glad you came, glad you're here…
One different aspect of the city is that you hardly encounter any public transport vehicles around. The only means of transport is taxis. The absence of meters in taxis and sharing the ride with different people as in shared minibuses are situations we're not used to. Another unusual situation is bargaining in taxis! Before going to Beirut, everyone told us we absolutely had to bargain with taxi drivers. This idea initially seemed wrong to me, but the moment I set foot in the country and started exploring, I understood this was very sound advice. Communication won't be a problem in this city. Arabic is the official language of the country, and English and French are spoken. Almost all taxi drivers speak English, at least enough to explain your needs.
We dedicated one of our days to exploring outside the city—Jeita, Harissa and Byblos. Tours are available to visit these historical and natural wonders, but if you want to explore independently like us, you can rent a taxi. However, make sure the taxi driver speaks a common language fluently. Otherwise you may face problems. When you rent a taxi, the driver shares this full-day tour with you. In fact, he acts as a sort of tour guide, though not in great detail. If you've negotiated the price, you turn on the radio and begin experiencing this oriental culture fully to Arabic music, and off you go to Beirut!
Jeita, a candidate for one of the world's new seven wonders and the world's 3rd largest natural cave, is definitely a must-see in my opinion. Many travellers have even added the Jeita cave to their must-visit-before-death list. You really can't believe your eyes at the sight before you. Located 18 km from Lebanon's capital Beirut, the Jeita cave was discovered by American William Thomson in 1836. The 2,130-metre-long cave contains the world's largest stalactite gallery halls measuring 200 metres in length. It's a two-level cave with the lower section accessible by boat. The cave, for which tunnels were opened in 1958 to ensure safe access for tourists, is reached by cable car. On the return, you can board a small train back to the entrance point. If you prefer to walk, you can stroll through a beautiful path, explore the open-air museums and take plenty of photos of the wonderful nature. You can also throw coins in the small pool inside and make a wish. If you believe in the mystique of such places, you can wish for luck for yourself and your friends.
Byblos, inscribed on UNESCO's World Cultural Heritage list and an ancient city seven thousand years old, is the birthplace of the alphabet we use today. Located on Lebanon's Mediterranean coast, this historic port city attracts visitors with its historic bazaars, historical artifacts, shores, and banana and olive groves. You can find souvenir shops in the historic bazaar. Near the harbour, you can visit the Crusader Castle built by the Crusaders, accompanied by tourist guides who speak Turkish if you wish. The small museum inside the castle provides information about both the city and the castle. There are also very elegant fish restaurants on Byblos beach. With its beach charm, I can say it reminded me of Antalya Kaleiçi. When you climb 3,000 metres by cable car and reach Harissa peak, you are greeted with a bird's-eye view of Beirut. You must see the giant statue depicting the Virgin Mary and the church beneath it. I hope it coincides with a lucky day for you. Sometimes the cable car doesn't operate due to bad weather.
If you enjoy visiting museums, you should also see the National Museum. The National Museum, which was damaged during the civil war, is now fully renovated and open to visitors. It spans from prehistory through the Mamluk period, and then to Ottoman and French administrations. Additionally, there is a section where you can watch a short documentary about the museum's reconstruction.
Al Omer Mosque should also be on your must-see list. The mosque was created when a church built by the Crusaders in the 12th century on the remains of a pagan temple and Byzantine palace was converted into a mosque by the Mamluks in 1291. You should also set aside time to visit St. George's Cathedral located nearby. In fact, photos of the mosque and cathedral framed from the clock tower always create very beautiful images.
In the Downtown area of Beirut stands the "Clock Tower," built by the Ottomans in 1897 and restored in 1994. In the traffic-free square, I recommend trying local specialities in very elegant restaurants. You can also access many culinary delights from world cuisine. I would call Downtown Beirut the city's most elegant destination. I believe if you're in a different country, the best thing is to taste and try that country's specialities. Especially if you're in Beirut. I recommend eating tabbouleh as a meze. Lebanese cuisine is very rich in appetisers. Sambusak (labne pastry), hummus, tabbouleh (parsley salad with fine bulgur), pomegranate molasses and thyme salad, kibbeh (bulgur-based or without bulgur), aubergine dip (charred), olives, olive pastry, kibbeh (stuffed bulgur meatballs)—just some of them. Falafel is also one of Beirut's street foods. Additionally, mint, yoghurt, various spices and pomegranate molasses are heavily consumed. Pomegranate molasses is heated and prepared as a sauce for liver and sausage. It can be tried at home.
If you love nuts and dried fruits, you're in the right place. You should definitely try their delicious nuts and you might even bring some back to Turkey. Otherwise, like me, you may regret it. I also recommend visiting small local grocery shops in the neighbourhoods to buy bananas and avocados. You can visit Corniche beach to see the Pigeon Rocks, which have become the city's symbol. It can be described as an ideal view for watching the sunset. Many tourists don't leave the city without visiting and photographing this place. If you go in summer, your holiday schedule will be busier. Because I've heard accounts that their beaches are also beautiful.
Before going to Beirut, people told me about the reputation of entertainment centres; but I couldn't imagine it at all. When Beirutis talk about entertainment and food, everything stops. Despite all the pain and sorrow, they try to sustain Beirut's different character. When you enter a nightclub, the memory of ruined buildings outside doesn't even exist in your mind.
If you enjoy experiencing, seeing and feeling different cultures; if you're curious about what people do in countries you don't know; if you're pleased when the sounds of different languages reach your ears like music; if you need to get away a bit, Beirut, which has witnessed many stories in the Middle East, is waiting for you.
Prepared by: Serap Kaptan
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