COSMETICS! THE UNSEEN SIDE OF A COLORFUL WORLD

Women, men, young and old… We all benefit from the colourful world of cosmetics to look better, feel better and even make ourselves more attractive. While this colourful world offers us these beauties, it also brings dangers with it. What are these sources of danger; where can they come from and what kind of impact do they create? Let us try to understand together… With developing production and consumption, new quality analyses are added to the cosmetics sector every day. These analyses are sometimes conducted to control processes and raw materials, sometimes due to regulatory requirements, and sometimes following claims made about products. In this way, if there is any problem with production, intervention takes place at the outset; raw materials and processes are changed if necessary, or any claims to be made are studied more carefully. For example, did you know that according to the Guidelines on Heavy Metal Impurities in Cosmetic Products issued by the Turkish Medicines and Medical Devices Agency, there are limit values for heavy metals in cosmetic products and toothpaste? Let us look at the limit values and their effects below:

The lipsticks, highlighters, foundations, blushes, lip pencils we use, particularly the shiny and glittery ones, may contain heavy metal sources. Long-term use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals above the determined limits, in relation to the dose and duration of exposure, becomes a risk factor in terms of negative health effects.

• Lead has been identified as having unwanted effects on many organs and systems including the central nervous system, kidneys and hematopoietic (blood-forming) system. • Arsenic, cadmium and their compounds are classified in Group 1 "Human Carcinogens" in the evaluation conducted by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). • Mercury compounds can cause allergic reactions, skin irritation or negative effects on the nervous system. • Excessive exposure to antimony and its compounds can negatively affect the skin, lungs, cardiovascular system and liver. Again, in recent times, particularly in wet wipes, creams and shampoos we buy for our newborn babies, we come across statements such as 'Paraben-Free, SLS-Free, SLES-Free, Silicone-Free'. Until recently, many cosmetics manufacturers used these substances, but as customers became more informed, their use declined and they began to appear as 'Claims' on products. • Paraben: P-Hydroxybenzoic acid esters. It is a preservative used to extend shelf life. It is widely preferred because of its effectiveness against microbiological contamination and low cost. Consuming excessive amounts or accumulation in the body over time can lead to hormonal disruption, irritation and breast cancer. Clinical studies conducted have demonstrated these effects.

According to the Ministry of Health Legislation System;

• Isopropyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Isopropylparaben) and sodium salt or salts thereof, • Isobutyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Isobutylparaben) and sodium salt or salts thereof, • Phenyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Phenylparaben), • Benzyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Benzylparaben), • Pentyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Pentylparaben), are banned substances. • SLS: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is the active ingredient in many cleaners and detergents. It is preferred especially because of its low cost and the large amount of foam it produces. Recent studies have shown that excessive accumulation of this chemical in the body leads to many adverse conditions such as eye damage, hair loss, skin dryness and irritation. Clinical studies have also demonstrated that excessive use or accumulation can disrupt the hormonal system and cause cancer. • SLES: Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate is the active ingredient in many cleaners and detergents, like SLS. Although it has less abrasive effect than SLS, it is still preferred because of its low cost and the large amount of foam it produces. When SLES penetrates the skin, its greatest effect is to mimic the oestrogen hormone. Imbalances in oestrogen hormone bring with them major health problems such as menstrual disorders, early menopause symptoms, infertility in men and breast cancer in women. • Silicone: Silicone is found in many products on the market because of cosmetics manufacturers' efforts to save money and cut costs. Silicone adds shine and fullness to hair by adhering to the hair's outer surface. While this may please us initially, the use of silicone-containing products can irritate the mucous membrane and by blocking the surface layer of the hair, it prevents the beneficial oils and nutrients contained in other beneficial hair products from entering the hair, causing hair weakening, breakage and loss. Since some of these synthetic cosmetic additives mentioned above have been identified as creating the risk of asthma, allergies, skin rashes and skin, breast, uterine and ovarian cancer following long-term contact, this issue has been scrutinised by health organisations and consumer bodies worldwide in recent years. To healthy and colourful days…     Büşra Gökdemir Head of Chemistry Department