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Analysis

New Polysaccharide in Cosmetics: Acemannan

Turkchem 09 Jun 2023 61 3 dk okuma
TURKCHEM
A New Polysaccharide in Cosmetics: Acemannan

What is Acemannan and How Does it Differ from Other Sugars?

Acemannan is a sugar (polysaccharide) found in the inner gel of the Aloe vera plant, composed of long chains of mannose sugars. Acemannan is known for its potential health benefits including structural repair and anti-inflammatory effects. The fundamental differences between acemannan and other sugars are its chemical structure and molecular weight. Molecular weight (MW) varies between 400 - 500 KDa depending on the source and extraction method, and this makes it extremely important for our skin. Unlike many other sugars extracted from corn, sugarcane or other plants, acemannan is specific to the Aloe vera plant.

Why Should It Be Used in Cosmetics for Its Properties?

When used in cosmetic formulations, acemannan has various potential benefits. Some of the benefits acemannan can provide are as follows: Moisturizing Effect: Acemannan has been shown to help skin retain moisture and this helps prevent dryness and flaking. This is particularly beneficial for people with dry or sensitive skin. Anti-inflammatory: Acemannan has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and itching on the skin. With this property, it potentially provides benefits for calming irritated skin. Structural Repair: Studies have shown that acemannan supports structural repair by stimulating collagen production, which is important for maintaining skin structure and elasticity.

How Did Active Bioworks Isolate This Product Using Unique Methods?

Active Bioworks ferments products from local farmers who carefully cultivate aloe vera plants using a special blend of bacteria and fungi. These microorganisms are selected according to their special enzymes to create more accessible and pure acemannan. The enzymatic reaction technology BETA™ (Bacterial Extraction Targeting Actives) developed by Active Bioworks is used here to develop a unique product. This way, pure acemannan with low molecular weight is obtained and is used in the Hydractive 100® product.

Active Bioworks' Acemannan-Rich Product: Hydractive 100® Efficacy Tests

Acemannan has a mechanism of action that triggers the production of cyclin D-1, a protein involved in cell cycle regulation. Cyclin D-1 is a protein that helps regulate the cell cycle by controlling the progression of cells from the G1 phase to the S phase, where DNA synthesis occurs. In healthy cells, cyclin D-1 is tightly regulated and its expression is controlled by various signaling pathways. Acemannan is one of the signaling molecules that triggers cyclin D-1 expression. In other words, it helps keep skin cells healthy. The in vitro study of HydrActive 100® showed that acemannan could interact with cyclin D-1 and increase its expression by up to 2.7-fold. This will have effects on skin such as increased cell proliferation and improved collagen synthesis; by increasing the amount of collagen in the skin, the skin becomes stronger, more elastic and retains moisture better. This results in skin that appears more hydrated, plump and youthful. Additionally, along with acemannan in HydrActive 100®, it has synergistic prebiotic activity with other ingredients. Prebiotics are a nutrient source for beneficial bacteria naturally living on the skin. These bacteria, also known as the skin microbiome, play an important role in maintaining skin health and function. A healthy microbiome is necessary to maintain overall skin health and appearance. Beneficial bacteria in the microbiome help prevent infections, reduce inflammation and improve skin moisture. Low molecular weight sugars are an excellent nutrient source for skin microbiome growth. Below is the growth analysis of S. epidermidis, one of the beneficial skin microbiome bacteria: The in vitro study of HydrActive 100® showed growth-supporting activity of up to 38% on the standard S. epidermidis strain (ATCC 12228). The growth-promoting effects of S. epidermidis on skin are beneficial for protecting healthy skin and preventing various skin conditions. M. Selim Yılmaz Director, Biology Department Active Bioworks  
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