Prevent, Treat and Care:
Nowadays, luminous skin is one of the most desired characteristics by people, as it is associated with uniform, healthy, young, fresh and rested skin. Luminosity can be customized to age, gender or skin type (dark and light). This customization process is known as Glowstumization, which is associated with one of the properties of luminosity, glow.
On a technical level, luminosity is the ability of a surface to reflect light. In the case of rough skin, nonuniform, with open pores or poorly cleansed; this light reflection will be difficult and scattered, making the skin look dull and lifeless. The rougher the surface, the more difficult the reflection will result. In the opposite case, when skin is uniform, exfoliated, clean, and its texture is smooth, the rays are reflected in all directions, resulting in a radiant, luminous and uniform skin.
But, Why is Luminosity Altered?
One of the main causes for the lack of uniformity in tone and luminosity of skin is the accumulated exposure to the exposome, which is the set of factors to which we are exposed in the course of life, including smoking, stress, nutrition, chemical pollutants, pollution, climatic changes and/or UV radiation. This exposure generates reactive oxygen species that accelerate and unbalance the melanin production process, causing hyperpigmentation and photodamage.
Melanin is responsible for providing color to the skin or hair and is produced in melanocytes that are found mainly in the dermal-epidermal junction. The number of melanocytes is the same for each ethnic group, what varies is the distribution, quantity and size of melanin. That is why there are two main types of melanin, pheomelanin with colorations from yellow to red and eumelanin that covers colorations from brown to black. The pheomelanin:eumelanin ratio determines the color of the skin, that is, the greater the amount of pheomelanin, the lighter the skin and the greater the amount of eumelanin, the darker. As mentioned above, at biochemical level, melanin is synthesized in melanocytes. The melanin synthesis process starts from the amino acid L-tyrosine and consists of a succession of oxidations of L-tyrosine, where the enzyme tyrosinase is key. This enzyme depends on copper that catalyzes the first two steps of melanin production:
1) The hydroxylation of L-tyrosine to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA).
2) The oxidation of L-DOPA to the corresponding quinone, L-dopaquinone.
Finally, and by different routes, eumelanin and pheomelanin are obtained. These reactions are affected by the reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by the exposome and are the cause of an excessive and uncontrolled irregular production of melanin, generating dull skin, with an uneven tone and spots.
How can we Achieve Uniform and Luminous Skin?
The most effective way to achieve uniform, radiant and luminous skin is a healthy routine that includes not only good hydration and nutrition, but also incorporates a cosmetic routine that includes cleansing, exfoliation, the use of moisturizing creams, treatment masks and the use of sunscreen. All these products that are incorporated into the cosmetic routine must have active ingredients with moisturizing, antioxidant and illuminating properties that unify the skin tone. In addition, these ingredients must have the ability to balance the melanin synthesis process, to neutralize hyperoxidation, inhibit and regulate tyrosinase activity, these actions being essential characteristics to obtain radiant, luminous skin and a more even tone. In nature we can find excellent alternatives with many advantages that help to obtain a uniform and luminous skin. Novachem SRL developed a cosmetic active ingredient of natural origin with in-vivo efficacy tests, which better meets the chemical characteristics required to achieve this skin.
Lumiglow™ is a biodegradable active ingredient, rich in delphinidins and ellagic acid obtained from Maqui (Maki), one of the most antioxidant fruits on earth and native to Andean Patagonia. Prevents and reduces hyperpigmentation, achieving a lighter and more even skin tone, increasing the natural luminosity of the skin. In addition, it helps reduce redness and is suitable for sensitive skin. Lumiglow™ achieves an illuminating effect and a more even tone thanks to its triple action mechanism, which is based on its components: delphinidins and ellagic acid.
Delphinidins, from the group of anthocyanins, act on this active ingredient in two (2) ways:
1. They inhibit the expression of the enzyme tyrosinase and as a consequence the synthesis of melanin is inhibited.
2. They neutralize the reactive oxygen species generated by the exposome and reduce the photo-oxidation of pre-existing melanin.
On the other hand, ellagic acid:
3. Inhibits the action of tyrosinase due to a chelating effect on copper, a necessary co-factor for tyrosinase activity.
1. Analytical Tests
1.1. Total Anthocyanins: High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis, with diode array detector (DAD).
1.2. Ellagic Acid: Analysis in High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), with UV Visible Diode Array Detector (DAD).
Due to its origin, Lumiglow™ contains ellagic acid which acts by chelating copper in the active site of the enzyme tyrosinase.
2. In-Vivo Efficacy Test: Illuminating Effect And Skin Color/Tone Even The following tests were carried out on the face (focused on the cheek area) of 15 volunteers, who used a 3% Lumiglow™ serum with a frequency of 2 applications in summer. The in vivo efficacy test was performed by instrumental analysis by non-invasive bioengineering techniques at days 0 and 28, using a Chromameter and analyzed by the CIELab system, which allows the determination of the parameters L, a*, b* and ITA angle.
Luminosity (Parameter L*), increased up to 13.8% and 100% of the panelists presented an improvement in the luminosity of the skin. Red component of the skin (Parameter a*), a decrease of up to 42.7% of this parameter was observed and 80% of the panelists showed a decrease in skin redness. Even skin tone. (ITA angle), is calculated from the parameters L (luminosity) and b* (b* is an indicator of skin color related to melanin). Increasing this angle indicates lighter, more even skin tone. An increase in the ITA angle of the skin was observed up to 88.3%, as well as an increase in the uniformity of the skin in 90% of the panelists.
3. In-Vivo Effectiveness Test: With Base Portraid Photofinder and with parallel polarized light.
The luminosity analysis from the photos was determined by the integrated density, which is a parameter of luminosity. If you increase this density, you increase the luminosity.
In this test, the integrated density was found to increase to 43.9%.
Conclusions
Maintaining a healthy skin not only depends on a good diet but also on the development of routines with cosmetic ingredients that can enhance luminosity and preserve the even tone of the skin. This is why achieving skin with these characteristics is due to the balance of complex processes such as the synthesis of melanin with substances that help prevent and treat the hyperpigmentation process of the skin to maintain a uniform tone and naturally luminous skin. Lumiglow™ provides a glowing effect to the skin, unifies its tone, illuminates, while protecting it naturally from the exposome generated by ROS (reactive oxygen species). Its most important advantages are the triple action mechanism, the stability in formulations and its great antioxidant power of natural and biodegradable origin that favors even the most sensitive skin.
Referanslar / References
Miranda-Rottmann et al., 2002 – Juice and Phenolic Fractions of the Berry Aristotelia chilensis Inhibit LDL Oxidation in Vitro and Protect Human Endothelial Cells against Oxidative Stress.
Myoung-Gun Choung, 2013 – Antimelanogenic effect and whitening of Anthocyanin Rich Fraction from Seeds of Liriope platyphylla.
H. Shimogaki et al., 2000 – In vitro and in vivo evaluation of ellagic acid on melanogenesis inhibition.
Author:
Paola Lázaro
Communication and Marketing Coordinator
Novachem
Compiled by:
Özge Yüksel Özel
Technical Manager
Beauty & Personal Care
Homecare and I&I
IMCD Turkey
